Pico Bonito (The CoastWatcher: Caribbean West)
News from the Honduras Bay Islands and North Coast
01 September 2001
By Pierre Renaldo, The Coastwatcher©

One of the most enjoyable sights I see from Roatan is the great view of the mainland on those nice clear mornings. The consistent rains of late have kept the atmosphere clean of the dust clouds that frequently are obscuring the North Coast from our vision, especially at this time of year which is usually dry and dusty.

Early morning hours reveal the mountains, specter-like in the distance with the pyramid peak of Pico Bonito taking center stage. I was wondering about how the climbers had been doing while I looked over the rim of my coffee cup. It was Friday and they would be up there as I watched. Then an idea popped into my head. I hadn't talked to Paul Cleveland or Tyl Sass for a while so I would make it a point to look them up and find out how the weekly hike/climb/tour was going.

They are the two principals of the company that operates the weekly adventure out of West End. I had read some interesting articles about them in "Honduras This Week", but I wanted to get something more real and first hand. Everyone I have talked to who has been on the hike has raved about the fun, the wonderful adventures, and the beauty of the highest mountain in Honduras.

When I arrived at the restaurant later that evening, there was a large group that just returned from the hike. I could tell by the mood that a good time was had by all. They were all talking at once, recounting the wildest parts of the day, and the main excitement centered around the Jaguar tracking and actually hearing the animal snarl at the mascot of the safari who was hot on the trail. He is a big dog named 'Terrible.'

I don't know if the name is significant to his tracking ability or his disposition, but if he ever catches up with a living Jaguar, the name "terrible" will likely be part of his epitaph. "Here lie the parts and pieces of a dog who met a terrible end."

As I took my seat, Tyl was describing the Tarzan act one to the park rangers attempted earlier in the day. He could hardly control his mirth when he told how the ranger took hold of a vine, and swung out over the gorge, only to be deposited into a thorny tree, twenty feet below, when the vine let go. Luckily he was not injured, except his pride, and the humiliation he endured while having a multitude of thorns removed from some very private places.

Paul Cleveland is Roatan's very own Indiana Jones, certifiably insane and the captain of the tour. It has turned into a real adventure, with some unusual escorts, one a big spider monkey who tags along on a particular part of the climb and departs each week when the group reaches the fern plateau. They describe this place of the big ferns as somewhat sinister, with living ferns at shoulder height. Somewhat prehistoric feeling.

I have heard them describe flights of toucans, all sorts of monkeys, and many colorful birds. The jungle foliage is lush and varied, with Ceiba trees seventeen feet in diameter, and unusual wild flowers. Crossing gorges on fallen logs, steep assents on narrow trails, and lunch on the veranda at a ranch are parts of the excitement and relaxation. Just like being on a movie set, but this is for real. And for the would be Tarzans, and Indiana Jones buffs, a few interesting challenges.

A troop of howler monkeys perches in a tree along the trail to watch the curiosity of men, something they see rarely. The waterfalls, and the deep cool pools where everyone refreshes are spaced at convenient intervals. The story of one of the tourists on the trip who kept falling back into the pool just as he thought he had gained footing on solid ground. The slippery rocks contributing to his acrobatics.

Everybody has fun, and there are few risks for the sane people on the tour. The recounting of the trip over diner and a few drinks puts a nice wrap on an adventuresome day. I have never met anyone who did not have an especially exciting interlude with Paul and Tyl and Terrible the Terrible, and Jaguars and monkeys and toucans and waterfalls, up on Pico Bonito. They are unanimous in their approval and recommendations. It is an off-beat experience, something to be remembered and talked about for a long time to come.
(Editor's note: Recently, there were two people assaulted at Pico Bonito, so even if this is an isolated incident, it is recommended to only go with a guided group.)

______________________________________

Welcome all you new subscribers to Roatan Insights. What happened out there with the sudden avalanche of new readers? And I appreciate the comments. I do my best to keep you informed and forearmed, so that when you come to Roatan you will do so with your eyes wide open.

Remember to address comments and questions to me at: elouis@globalnet.hn

and check out my book site for interesting facts and stories about the Bay Islands: http://www.eroatan.com/cgi-bin/pierre.cgi?books

That's it for this week. Stay tuned for more exciting news.

Ciao
Pierre

By Pierre Renaldo, Mountain Coastal S.A,. General Contractors, Construction Management and Construction Consultants.